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New Zealand Journal of Marine and Freshwater Research abstracts


Ocean wave characteristics around New Zealand

R. A. Pickrill

J. S. Mitchell

N.Z. Oceanogmphic Institute, Department of Scientific and Industrial Research, P.O. Box 12346, Wellington, New Zealand

Abstract Nearly 17 years wave records from deep water and shore-based stations are used to describe the ocean wave characteristics around New Zealand. The wave environment is dominated by west and southwest swell and storm waves generated in the temperate latitude belt of westerly winds. As a result, the west and south coasts are exposed, high energy shores, the east coast is a high energy lee shore, and the northern coast from North Cape to East Cape is a low energy lee shore sheltered from these winds and waves. South of New Zealand, wave energies are extremely high; the prevailing deep water wave is 3.5-4.5 m high and has a 10-12 s period, with a slight increase in wave heights in winter.

The west coast wave environment is mixed, and consists of locally generated westerly and southerly storm waves, and swell waves generated to the south. The prevailing wave is t.0-3.0 m and 6-8 s period. There are no strong seasonal rhythms, only shorter period cycles of wave height (5 day) associated with similar quasi-rhythmic cycles in the weather.

The east coast also has a mixed wave climate with southerly swells, originating in the westerlies south of New Zealand, and locally generated southerly and northerly storm waves. The prevailing wave is 0.5-2.0 m and 7-11 s period. A short period rhythmic cycle, similar to that on the west coast, is superimposed on a weak seasonal cycle. The seasonal, cycle results from an increase in the frequency of local northerly waves in summer.

The prevailing wave on the north coast is a northeasterly, 0.5-1.5 m high and 5-7 s period. Subtropical disturbances and southward-moving depressions generate a mixed wave environment and a possible seasonally reflecting a winter increase in. storminess.

New Zealand journal of Marine & Freshwater Research, 1979, 13 (4): 501-520
Received 18 December 1978; revision received 7 June 1979

PDF file of entire paper: medium quality (1692K); (scanned from paper original: notes about this process)


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